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Introducing Phu Quoc
Island
One of Vietnam’s star attractions,
mountainous and forested Phu Quoc is
a splendid tropical getaway set with
beautiful white-sand beaches and
quaint fishing villages. Adventure
comes in many forms here – from
motorbiking the empty dirt roads
circling the island to sea kayaking
its quiet inlets, scuba diving the
coral reefs or simply having a
bang-up seafood meal followed by a
cocktail on the beach. Once a
sleepy, backpackers’ retreat, Phu
Quoc has ramped up tourism
significantly, and visitors can now
choose between five-star resorts and
rustic family-run bungalows. Plans
are underway for developing the
island even more heavily – a la
Phuket style. If package tourism
isn’t your bag, get there now before
this happens.
The tear-shaped island lies in the
Gulf of Thailand, 45km west of Ha
Tien and 15km south of the coast of
Cambodia. At 48km long (with an area
of 1320 sq km), Phu Quoc is
Vietnam’s largest island and its
most politically contentious: Phu
Quoc is claimed by Cambodia; its
Khmer name is Ko Tral – which is why
the Vietnamese have built a
substantial military base covering
much of the northern end of the
island (thankfully, the military
presence is fairly invisible).
Phu Quoc Island served as a base for
the French missionary Pigneau de
Behaine during the 1760s and 1780s.
Prince Nguyen Anh, who later became
Emperor Gia Long, was sheltered here
by Behaine when he was being hunted
by the Tay Son Rebels.
Phu Quoc is not really part of the
Mekong Delta and doesn’t share the
delta’s extraordinary ability to
produce rice. The most valuable crop
is black pepper, but the islanders
here have traditionally earned their
living from the sea. Phu Quoc is
also famous in Vietnam for its
production of high-quality fish
sauce (nuoc mam).
The island has some unusual hunting
dogs, which have ridgebacks, curly
tails and blue tongues and are said
to be able to pick up their masters’
scent from over 1km away (the nuoc
mam their masters eat certainly
helps). Unfortunately, the dogs have
decimated much of the island’s
wildlife.
Despite the impending development
(of a new international airport, a
golf course and a casino), much of
this island is still protected since
becoming a national park in 2001.
Phu Quoc National Park covers close
to 70% of the island, an area of 31,
422 hectares.
Phu Quoc’s rainy season is from July
to November. The peak season for
tourism is midwinter, when the sky
is blue and the sea is calm;
however, when it’s not raining it’s
stinking hot. Bring sunglasses and
plenty of sunblock. Take plenty of
water when setting out to explore
the island.
Get in
Visitors from any country arriving
to Phu Quoc by cruise ship no longer
need a visa for stays of up to 15
days. A passport with at least 45
days' validity is still necessary.
Visitors arriving in Phu Quoc by any
other means (eg. plane) are still
subject to normal visa
regulations.
By plane
You can fly from Ho Chi Minh City
(Saigon) on one of four or five
daily Vietnam Airlines flights or
from Rach Gia which has two flights
per day. 630,000 - 830,000 Dong
By boat
There are ferries and hydrofoils
between Phu Quoc to Rach Gia, Ha
Tien and Hon Chong. You may be told
by tour agents that the fast boats
are full, but if you go to the dock
where the boats depart you may have
the opportunity to buy tickets from
street sellers.
Phu Quoc - Rach Gia - 0800, 0810
Rach Gia - Phu Quoc - 1300, 1310
Hydrofoils takes 2 1/2 hours, costs
240,000 Dong
Phu Quoc - Ha Tien
Hydrofoils takes 1hour 10 mins.
Costs 190,000 Dong. Daily at 0900.
Slow boat takes 3 hours, costs
100,000 Dong, but doesn't go daily.
Leaves at 1000.
Phu Quoc - Hon Chong - 1230
Hon Chong - Phu Quoc - 1000
Costs 160,000 Dong.
Do not expect to find taxis on
arrival in Phu Quoc, though there
will likely be a few motos. Minibus
ply to the two main towns, but
tickets are sold on the boat and
sell out before arrival. Cost 20,000
Dong. Transfer can also be arranged
through your hotel.
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